The Italian Dolomites 19th June-27th June 2009 (Kate’s half of the story!)
Caroline Denny, Katherine (Caroline’s sister), Pete Hadfield, Andy Main, Kate Oldershaw and Fred Richard.
Over a pint the three of us (Pete, Fred and I) decided that driving to Cortina (1048 miles) was a brilliant idea-a proper expedition and indeed the only way to travel there-pfffff to flying!
The first leg of the drivathon/expedition began at Gloucester and ended in Dover, with a wee bit of speeding between. Once in Dover the boys rumbling bellies got the better of them and we ended up on a diversion to a fish and chip shop. With their appetites satisfied we headed to the port, and met a stern looking man at customs who informed us that we had missed the ferry and would have to wait until midnight for the next.
Lesson one of the expedition: Fish and chips are bad for you!
The 2nd/ final mammoth section of the drive began in the early hours at Dunkirk. During the first hour of the journey we managed an impressive 5 miles touring around Dunkirks finest industrial estates while trying to locate Fred’s preferred bank. When we finally started to clock up some miles we put the wheels in five different countries, namely France, Belgium, Holland, Germany, Austria, arriving in Cortina (Italy) 27 hours after departing Gloucester! The three sensible (flying) members of the trip (Andy, Katherine and Caroline) arrived at Campsite Rochetta an hour later than us, completing their entire journey in under five hours!
Via ferrata was high on our agenda for the trip, and we started with the easiest of grades (1A) to test the water. The Sentierio Astaldi route started at refuge Dibona and hugged the limestone strada leading us to the refuge Pomedes. Although a very easy route it gave us breath taking views (the limestone strada was interleaved with layers of green and red clay like material) and left us all chomping on the bit for more. The boys started plotting while at the refuge and decided that they should go straight on to a 5C (the highest grade) and conquer Punta Anna and the summit of tofana di mezzo (3244m). They encountered some interesting snow fields-Fred struggling slightly in his trainers- and steep scree slopes, but arrived back at the base camp elated.
One of the most hair raising days for me, Andy, Katherine and Caroline started at Hotel Fiames, where we tackled Punta Fiames (2240m) with relative ease (3B) and after having a group photo on the summit looked down at the daunting 300m scree slope. Apparently running is the easiest method of descending down these intimidating slopes, Andy headed on first, plummeting down at speed, quite definitely winning the scree running award for style! At the bottom we decided that the day wasn’t quite complete, we wanted more via ferrata! The route Terza Cengia-Forcella Zumeles was only a 2C, but the “C” definitely made a difference and Andy made a new grading system (A not exposed, B exposed, C all the wire will be rotted away) which generally summed up the route! The ridges were narrow, drops significant (1000m) and protection minimal. Around every bend we gasped, wi th my famous quote “you’re having a laugh if you think I am going up that!!” In the guide it describes my “that” as a “chossy 45 degree ramp with unpleasant and laborious climbing” However we made it to the summit of Punta Erbing (2301m), had our victory photos taken and started on our descent. Unfortunately hitching didn’t work (Katherine and Caroline are pros at hitching and vowed it was the way to travel around Europe, Andy and I were and still remain sceptical) and so we ended up walking to Cortina stopping off at one of the bars for a wee pint-which was definitely well deserved-a splendid day.
Lesson number two of the expedition: Hitching doesn’t work!
The best via ferrata of the trip was had at Col Rosa (3B) (2166m), it gave us exposure (described in the guide book as “airyness”), steepness, stemples, traverses, gullies and superb views of Cortina and the surrounding peaks. All of us completed the route, albeit at varying speeds- Fred and Pete were on a mission, wanting to climb after the via ferrata! When we had signed in the book at the summit some Italians ushered us towards a hole in the ground. On closer inspection the hole revealed a large network of wartime tunnels and chambers (many of the via ferratas were originally built in order to help movements of the alpine military during the First World War).
Due to the unseasonably cold weather which was persisting over the Italian dolomites a lot of the via ferrata routes were closed, including one of the routes we had all starred-The Sorapiss Circuit. It is described in the guide as a “classic mountain round” and would have taken two days, with a mountain bivouac. On the final day of the holiday Katherine, Caroline, Andy and I decided we would investigate part of the circuit and headed up towards the refuge Vandelli. The path wasn’t worn, and we ended up making our own way over snow fields and climbing over fallen trees. Clouds started rolling in but luckily as the heavens opened we caught sight of the refuge, and to our su rprise it was open! We hukkered down, eating soup and bread and started to plan future trips. The clouds then lifted and we headed to a stunning blue/green coloured lake (Lake Sorapis), unfortunately it was freezing cold, so none of us scored any lake bagging points. We got views of part of the via ferrata, and it looked stunning-very dramatic. Snow blocked our way further up on the 223 route, and we ended up having to retrace our steps back down to the refuge, however we did get a taste of the route-I will definitely complete it on my next visit to the Dolomites!
Cinque Torri (five towers) was a climbing mecca-a playground for anyone slightly rock inclined! The Torre Grande (2262M) was very intimidating, with the slightly smaller Torre Lusy still dominating the landscape. Unfortunately the weather was rather unsettled on our visits to Cinque torri but luckily there was a splendid refuge which did the most scrumptious minestrone soup-served with parmesan! Fred and I managed to do a climb called Lucy, a five pitch route. Our first attempt of this route was unsuccessful due to the persistent rain, but did enable Fred to practise his prussiking technique as our rope got stuck around our abseil point. Pete had to do exactly the same on his route which he completed with a drowned rat Andy.
Lesson number three of the expedition: Always check that the rope will run through the ready made abseil point!
A trip report for the Italian dolomites cannot be complete without a mention of the superb cuisine! Fred put an average of 10 cloves of garlic into most of our “campsite” culinary delights and managed to pack away two main courses, a pudding and a macchiato when we dined in Cortina. Pete discovered number nine spaghetti-thick spaghetti which is hollow- I found very difficult to slurp up, very entertaining! Katherine and Caroline were very impressive, cooking themselves a three course meal on a Trangia. I have been unable to face pizza since our return (five pizzas in eight days is just tooooo much!)
Thank you to everyone on this trip, it was blooming brilliant!
Hello there one and all
All in all I'm having a lovely time, the weather is amazing and I think I could quite happily stay down here forever.
